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Friday, April 15, 2011

BALI 2009

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Bali is an Indonesian island located in the westernmost end of the Lesser Sunda Islands, lying between Java to the west and Lombok to the east. It is one of the country's 33 provinces with the provincial capital at Denpasar towards the south of the island.
With a population recorded as 3,891,000 in 2010,[2] the island is home to most of Indonesia's small Hindu minority. (wikipedia source)

Our trip in 2009: (click on map to enlarge it, then you can enlarge again)



There are many tourists in Bali but in general they are all grouped in the same places: Ubud, Seminyak and Kuta in particular.
Despite the tourists in July and August, this island is full of soul, charming corners, traditional music played throughout (not just for tourists, it means that they work on their premises gamelans in almost every street in Ubud, for example) ... Full of beautiful little nice cafés, art galleries, wonderful markets, small temples ...
The Balinese are incredibly kind. Always smiling, ready to help you, always honest and incredibly respectful of their traditions, both in art as in religion, rituals. Their kindness is intimately linked to their religion and their philosophy. They are passionate about their island and will always be happy to refer you, tell you, show you, and sometimes to invite you in less touristic places.
Despite mass tourism, the Balinese maintain a great kindness. Only in Kuta there is a different lifestyle and a bit different reactions. (because Kuta is the most touristic city of Bali).

Flights to Bali
Only non-direct flights from Europe as Bali (Denpasar) airport is too small to allow big planes.Air Asia (low cost) purposes more and more flights from Europe: London-Kuala Lumpur, or Paris-Kuala Lumpur for example. Prices are attractive if you book well in advance.The super Rome2rio.org website will give you different opportunities to get to Bali from your starting point.

Car/Taxi in Bali:
Bali is a small island. But lets the impression of being bigger because of the small roads. .. The distances seem quite long, the roads are winding and driving is different from driving in Europe. Google maps does not give the right timing between two points. (you can at least double the timing).Taking a taxi is not expensive and is safer than renting a car yourself. Driving is very special here. The signposts are rare.

Boat trips:Prefer the Perama company for short or medium distances (eg, Sanur, Nusa Lembongan): 
http://www.peramatour.com/For longer trips by boat, if you're in a hurry, there are speed boats, high-polluting but very fast (Perama or other private companies). Take a seat inside the boat, especially not outside despite the authorization of staff. (We saw tourists cry of fear and refrigerated).

In Bali, you will see the Balinese hinduist offerings everywhere: in streets, on scooters, on cars, down the temples, under trees, everywhere. They are still filed by women who develop a very sensitive gesture.They are right eaten by birds or dogs. But for balinese people, it does not matter, the gods have already taken these offerings. No big pollution, they are made from mostly natural materials.

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Ubudcultural center of the island:
In Ubud reign cars, exhaust fumes, many shops, bars, sidewalk cafes, restaurants.The town runs with tranquility!
BUT walk 5 minutes and suddenly, within a second, silence is golden. Nobody. You enter gradually in streets and lovely sunny empty streets, jungle or rice paddies ... It is simply amazing, this contrast. And so much fun. There's something for every taste and every mood.
Ubud's rice fields


Ubud is really a good point to drive to any point of the island

Ubud's market. Really nice
  • In Ubud, we hear the sound of gamelan throughout.
  • Accommodations abound, as well as small cafes and cars ... (Indeed, a group fightingfor the cars spend more in town).
  • Art galleries everywhere, also sculptors, painters. Art is omnipresent here.
  • The lush vegetation is always near; This town is on a human scale.
  • The taxi drivers are asking you 50 times a day if you need their services ... It can be a bit heavy, but still remain friendly;-)
  • Monkey Forest, a forest full of monkeys. But also a "street"full of various guesthousesand hotels, and bars ..


Ubud
A house in Ubud (inside the house)
A really good guesthouse, medium prices: Gayatri bungalows 2, Monkey Forest Street. http://www.gayatribungalow2.com/  tel: (0361) 979129
around 20€ the room in 2009. Swimming pool.
If you travel to Bali in the summer, it is best to book accommodation in advance.Guesthouses listed in guidebooks are often full!


I just found a plan which seems good! You can rent a whole villa with a swimming pool for 30$ per night in Ubud, with this great website Roomorama: Ubud Villa 30$ per night  (price 2011)

DELICIOUS restaurant overlooking the rice fields at a tiny price, while the restaurant looks very luxurious, the service of a large hotel, and the incredible sight:
"Tropical Bale" jalan Raya Sanggingan. Ubud, Bali

Other good and nice restaurants: 
  • Tutmak (try their houmous!) Tutmak
  • Devilicious, delicious and cheap: adress: Gaotama, Padang Tegal KajeCentral Ubud
  • Nomad restaurant, main street. Nomad
  • Lotus Café to eat well and see the traditionnal dances and musics. More expensive but it's worth.
    Show at Lotus Café

A little advice: rent bicycles to explore the surroundings of Ubud, between villages and rice fields. You can also go to the cave  Goa Gajah and its surrounding gardens from Ubud by bike. If you go to Bali, you should really do it, but be careful with the cars.

Goa Gajah cave





One of these strange vehicles in Bali..

Nusa Lembongan's island: To go to Nusa Lembongan, take a boat in Sanur.
seaweed cultivation in Nusa Lembongan

Seaweed cultivation, High tide

Seaweed cultivation, low tide
once they pick up the seaweeds, they dry it
  • superb dives with "World Diving", held by an english man, John absolutely wonderful man, so passionate by his work. He dives for 40 years and is still totally amazed when he sees this or this fish (in a real aquarium sea. They usually drop you to Nusa Penida, which is the best place to dive in Bali). Site web de World Diving
  • Good place to stay: "Ketut bungalows".  Site web de Ketut bungalows
  • Nice walks to do on the island by bicycle or scooter. Very few cars. Not bad tracksseveral villages ... perfect to stay 4 days.
  • There is a local life thanks to the cultivation of algae. Who says local life, says interest of the place

Tanah Lot Temple.  Absolutely avoid the famous sunset if you do not want too many tourists ... At sunset, its just the big crowd.
Tanah Lot temple


Ricefields in Jatiluwih (stunning), near the village of Bedugul.




Munduk waterfall  a good trip ! and less tourists than at the other waterfall.

Bratan Temple and Lake, and Buyan Lake, just beside the Bratan Lake
Lac Bratan

Lac Buyan

Padang Bai  

A village rather unsightly but nice because the local life.
Two sublime beaches are hidden, ask the premises. Coconut Beach and Blue Lagoon. 



Balinese gamelan


Gili islands
It is recommended to take anti-malaria if you go to Gili Meno. Indeed, the small pond can attract mosquitoes wicked. Ask to your doctor or embassy.

Gili are accessed by boat from Padang Bai, the ferry tickets can be purchased in a bar in the small port. The boat drops you off on the first island, Gili Trawangan.

If you want to go on one of the other two, it must negotiate with a fisherman and join a group of tourists in order to negociate the price.

Gili Trawangan
our bungalow in Gili Meno
The 3 Gili All three are real gems, but the atmospheres are different. More festive and joyous, Gili Trawangan. 2 other ones with a family atmosphere, Gili Meno and Gili Air. Very very quiet. Only the cry of the geckos and small eddies of the sea will rock your parties.

Around the Gili, enjoy the underwater sights.

You can  also drop the island of Lombok with no problem with the boat.

Shopping:
If you have the opportunity to go to Denpasar, the capital of the island, you will make great savings by purchasing items, Buddha, decoration, in the large market (Pasar Badung). Denpasar has no cultural or architectural interest. The pasar (market) is still worth a visit.

Some places we did not like so much in Bali:
  • Amed: in general people like we have not liked: not a village, hotels along the road, but apparently for divers, it's pretty good.
  • Kuta (Bali), we did not like at all but we knew in advance, is the haunt of Brice de Niceand tourists seeking cultural not really, but 2 km from the airport, it may be practical tospend a night before your return.
  • Sanur (soulless)
  • Seminyak (soulless)

In conclusion, BALI:
The kindness of the premises is impressive, delicious food, the temples are absolutelyeverywhere (a temple to house!), art in general is everywhere, lush nature (as far as floraand fauna), the ideal temperature and sea teeming with colorful fish. The strong traditions make Bali a very endearing.

Another good point, one can walk to a taxi for really cheap, anywhere and everywherearound the taxi drivers as they improvise easily guides love their island. Through them,we discovered lots of corners without tourists, just ask them.

For more informations about RELIGION in Bali, RITUALS,  ARTS in Bali, go on this page: BALI The isle of Gods

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